Push the Boundaries of Fashion with Pattern Magic Volume Techniques

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Pattern Magic Volume is a book series written by Tomoko Nakamichi that focuses on the creation and transformation of patterns for fashion design. The main idea behind Pattern Magic Volume is to inspire designers and fashion students to think outside the box when it comes to pattern-making. The books feature a wide range of unconventional and avant-garde techniques for manipulating patterns, such as pleating, draping, and twisting. These techniques are presented through step-by-step instructions and detailed illustrations, allowing readers to easily follow along and apply the techniques to their own designs. The main idea of Pattern Magic Volume is to encourage experimentation and creativity in pattern-making, challenging traditional notions of garment construction. By exploring new and innovative ways to manipulate patterns, designers can create unique and original designs that stand out in the fashion industry.


wear a polyhedron
Basic…………245
214…………246
215…………248

Part 1 Play with geometric 108 Wear a ball 109 123 122 Wear Yen 110 124 111 126 Wear a triangle 112 128 Wear squares 130 Nyokitto 132 114 133 115 137 134 135 136 Like a stall 116 138 Ball bellows 117 141 140 Circle bellows 118 143 142 Circle sleeve 119 145 Square bellows 120 146. The fabric colours represented in the photos may differ slightly from the actual product, All images are taken in natural light but their appearance on-screen can vary depending on the calibration of your computer monitor.

Pattern magic volume

By exploring new and innovative ways to manipulate patterns, designers can create unique and original designs that stand out in the fashion industry. One of the main focuses of Pattern Magic Volume is the concept of "transformation." Nakamichi explores how patterns can be transformed from simple shapes into complex and dynamic garments.

Pattern Magic 3 – Review

This year on my birthday I was surprised with a book I didn’t even know was coming out – Pattern Magic 3, by Tomoko Nakamichi. I have the other three books, 1, 2 and Stretch Fabrics, and as you know I’m fascinated by them. A few years back I attempted to make something from the books each month, but I didn’t get further than May. If you click the tag ‘patternmagic’ at the top of this post you’ll see what else I made in this category. I still long to go back to this project, the pattern manipulation is just mind boggling and really gives you a totally different perspective on what you can do with a flat piece of paper/fabric. For now, I’ll stick to discussing this new addition to the series. Enjoy!

My first impression when flipping through the pages is that this one seems to have moved further away from what most people consider wearable. Creating wearable garments with a pretty silhouette isn’t the point of these books anyway, rather a search for authenticity and craftsmanship, as stated in the intro. The first half of the book is called ‘Bring beautiful workmanship to your patterns’, and contains more angular designs. The second half is titled ‘Look at the dynamic movement in fabrics’ and has more flowing designs. As with the other books, it is set up in themes, each with a basic technique that is explained first. This is then followed by some examples of what you could do with such a technique. I won’t discuss all the themes, but I’ll give some highlights.

‘Making Waves’ ‘Paring down and opening out’

The first one above is ‘Making Waves’ (aka ‘droopy boob’ :)). The basic technique is to draft a wave, and then slash and spread the upper wave. This way it becomes bigger than the lower wave and protrudes from the bodice. A gusset is then fit in to fill the gap between the waves. In the photo, the left lower and right upper wave have been slashed and spread out so they overlap the wave underneath.

The second photo is ‘Pairing down and opening out’, a particularly interesting one. The basic technique is to first remove all the darts from the bodice, so it is just a flat piece and wouldn’t fit a three dimensional body. Then you make some new slits, which will open up when the pattern is placed on a body. By playing with the shapes of these slits and the way you fill them in again you can create really interesting shapes over curved areas.

The first photo is from the theme ‘Wearing a polyhedron’. As Nakamichi says in the intro: “It looks like a beautiful objet d’art.”. The basic technique is to divide the pattern into triangles and then enlarge one point of these, so they will stick out when put back together. They are not all stitched together, it looks complicated but doesn’t have many seams. It’s a bit hard to explain without the technical drawings, but it does look very interesting. I could imagine using this technique to make a suit of armour for cosplay.

The black and white garments are called ‘Outlining a surface’ and are easy to accomplish. You draft a line across the pattern, make one side a different shape and then slash and spread the other side to be the same length. ‘Sculpting a surface’ is similar to ‘Wearing a polyhedron’. You divide the pattern into angular shapes, and then add a little bit to all the corners so they will stick out. It kind of reminds me of a deflated soccer ball.

‘Full bodied ruffle’ ‘Wearing a bag’

These two images are from the second half of the book. To be honest I’m not able to grasp the basic technique of the ruffle without thoroughly reading the instructions. I do see how the ruffle above works and the pattern making does not look too complicated. The sewing part does though, illustrated by the fact that they included sewing instructions at all. It does make for a beautiful garment that could be worn to a fancy party maybe.

About ‘Wearing a bag’, Nakamichi writes: “Pairing shoulder bags with a dress turns a simple garment into something glamorous and pretty.”. I’m not sure agree with that, but if this is your thing, it doesn’t look too complicated. There are also examples of wearing a bag as a sleeve and around the neck.

‘Elastic shirring’ and ‘Serrated lines’

Now these to could actually be everyday – wearable. In fact, I once tried to make something like the elastic shirring dress, and it’s cool to understand now how I should have done it. It’s not just a case of just shirring a circle, you should first create the extra fabric for the shirring to bunch up, so your final piece will still have its straight edges and isn’t pulled into the middle.

The basic technique for ‘Serrated lines’ is to draft a zig zag, leave the upper part the same but make the bottom zig zag more shallow, while maintaining the length of the lines. It’s like stretching out the bottom line. When you then put them back together, the bottom part will be larger and create volume. This technique is also shown on a sleeve to create a cool version of a leg of mutton sleeve, and how to use a minimal version on a normal seam.

Even though you shouldn’t buy this book if you’re looking for wearable garments, it would be great if you’re looking to make them for the sake of the experiment. As all pattern magic books, understanding these technique definitely stretches your mind. For me that’s all I want – to understand how things work and to know the possibilities.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this peek into Pattern Magic 3! Is this book on your wish list? Which technique would you want to try?

Bunka Shiki Prototype How to Draw for Adult Women 10
Pattern magic volume

This idea of transformation allows designers to create garments that can change and adapt to different body shapes and movements. Pattern Magic Volume is not just a book series, but a source of inspiration and a tool for designers to push the boundaries of their craft. The techniques and ideas presented in the books can be applied to a wide range of garments, from dresses and skirts to coats and jackets. In conclusion, Pattern Magic Volume is a series of books that aims to inspire and challenge designers in the field of pattern-making. The main idea behind the books is to encourage creativity and experimentation, pushing the boundaries of traditional garment construction. Through step-by-step instructions and detailed illustrations, Nakamichi guides readers in creating unique and innovative designs. Pattern Magic Volume is a valuable resource for fashion designers and students looking to expand their skills and create truly original garments..

Reviews for "Discover the Endless Design Possibilities with Pattern Magic Volume"

- Emily - 2 stars - I was really excited to try out some of the patterns in "Pattern Magic Volume," but I was sorely disappointed. The instructions were confusing and poorly explained, making it nearly impossible for me to complete any of the designs. Additionally, the book lacked clear illustrations, making it even more difficult to understand the techniques. I wouldn't recommend this book to anyone unless they are already experienced in pattern making and can figure out the instructions on their own.
- Mark - 2 stars - As an amateur seamstress, I was hoping "Pattern Magic Volume" would provide some unique and creative patterns to try out. Unfortunately, I found the designs in this book to be overly complex and impractical for everyday wear. The book focuses more on avant-garde and experimental designs that may work well for fashion shows, but are not practical for regular people. The instructions were also quite difficult to follow, leaving me frustrated and unable to complete any of the projects. I would suggest looking for other pattern books that offer more wearable and user-friendly designs.
- Sarah - 2 stars - "Pattern Magic Volume" was recommended to me by a friend, but I was left disappointed after going through it. The patterns in this book are extremely exaggerated and not suitable for everyday use. I found it difficult to adapt the techniques to make them more wearable. The instructions were not very clear, and the lack of detailed illustrations made it even more challenging to understand the steps. While this book might appeal to those looking for avant-garde designs, I would not recommend it to aspiring sewers who want practical and usable patterns.

Embrace the Magic of Pattern Manipulation with Pattern Magic Volume

Immerse Yourself in the World of Innovative Pattern Making with Pattern Magic Volume